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The Czechs love their beer, knocking back more than any other nation -- an incredible 160 litres per man, woman and child a year, or half a litre daily, EU Business wrote on April 10. Not that they even consider their beer alcohol at all, fondly referring to it as "liquid bread". At an average 0.5 euros a half-litre, beer in a pub is often cheaper than a soft drink. "Drinking a beer is like a whole meal, complete with all the vitamins," says Neruda's friend Bedrich Bares, 75.

According to Jan Vesely, president of the Czech Brewers' Association, there are three key reasons for the country's record-breaking consumption. "Beer traditionally plays a very important role in Czech life and culture, it is relatively cheap and Czech beer is very good quality," he says.

In recent months another factor has emerged. "With EU accession many Czechs fear that the country will dissolve as a nation. Beer is a key part of their identity that they want to hold on to; they are very proud of their beer and they will keep drinking it," adds Vesely. Czechs' undying love for their "pivo" stretches back to the 9th century when beer was first brewed in the region that is now the Czech Republic. Legend has it that in years gone by anyone caught exporting precious hop cuttings was executed.

In the past doctors prescribed beer, grandmothers still wash their hair in it and some women swear dark beer boosts the size of their busts.

Nowadays the Czechs can boast internationally-known brands such as Pilsner Urquell, Budweiser Budvar (or Budejovicky Budvar in those countries where it has lost to American rival Anheuser-Busch in their worldwide trademark dispute) and Staropramen. They can also claim the world's first beer museum, an annual beer Olympics and a Friends of Beer political party that once stood for election (and won 1 percent of the vote).

Nor is there any sign of the level of drinking slowing down. Since the fall of communism in 1989 beer consumption has grown steadily, peaking at 161 litres per capita last year.

Still, in an effort to maintain consumption levels, the industry has teamed up with doctors to launch an extensive marketing campaign touting beer's alleged health benefits: insisting it can stop the onset of a range of conditions from osteoporosis to cardiovascular disease, skin conditions and gynecological problems. "We want to encourage a lot of people to drink a little beer and to appeal to younger generation and women, not just the men drinking 10 beers in the pub," says Vesely.

Unlike many other countries where more beer is consumed off-trade, 55 % of all beer is consumed in bars and restaurants -- and less than 1 % is imported.

"For Czechs, beer is not a drink but part of our culture and heritage," says Alexej Bechtin, spokesman for the largest Czech brewery, SABMiller-owned Plzensky Prazdroj. The brewer recently organised a vast exhibition of beer-inspired art in a prestigious gallery, with beer on tap.

The brewing industry contributes 1.47 billion euros to the economy annually and employs around 11,000 people.

It has even contributed to the growth in tourism, with beer's cheap reputation helping to earn Prague the dubious honour of Europe's number one bachelor weekend destination.


13 April, 2004